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2026 Regional Standards for Sustainable Lawn Care

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It also fixes thatch problems by creating an excellent environment for microbes that degrade thatch. Core aerators are available for leasing at many hardware shops and equipment suppliers. Use self-propelled units with vertically running tines when possible; tines mounted on drum rollers are less reliable because they pull shallower cores.

Effectively growing turfgrass in the shade can be difficult. Turfgrass plants are naturally adapted to grow in complete sun to partial shade. (Glechoma hederacea).

For best outcomes, plant mixes containing at least 50% fine fescues for dry, shaded conditions. For damp, shaded conditions plant mixes with at least 10% supina bluegrass (P. supina).

Apply fertilizer at the very same time as for turf in bright areas but cut the rate in half. Utilizing the complete rate on shaded grass briefly increases leaf development and avoids vigorous root growth; eventually the turf passes away as the root system can no longer provide sufficient water and nutrients to the leaves.

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Research study shows the leaves can be mulched into the lawn without hurting the turf, as long as the blades of grass remain 12 inches above the mulched tree leaves. For some locations, shade-tolerant groundcovers or mulches might be a better option than turfgrass. Refer to Growing Yard in Shade for a listing of plants adjusted to low-light areas.

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They invade wherever turf is weak or thin. Good cultural management practices (mowing, fertilization, and irrigation) will encourage growth of dense, healthy grass and crowd out and prevent weeds. In reality, with proper mowing and timely fertilization alone you can avoid between 70 and 90% of all weed issues. Herbicides should be used just as a last option to suppress a weed problem.

Select an herbicide based on its capability to manage the target weed(s). Factors to consider include the type of weed and the life cycle of the weed (annual, biennial, or perennial).

Other herbicides are packaged to be applied using a garden hose. Herbicide focuses are usually implied to be applied with a hand-held, backpack, or tractor-mounted sprayer, though some might consist of directions for applying with a hose-end sprayer. Do not purchase more herbicide than you will use within 1 year. Usage herbicides safely to avoid injury to yourself and the environment.

If you plan to overseed, follow the directions on the label to make sure the herbicide application does not prevent germination of the seed. Lots of herbicides are specific for just specific types of weeds; these are called selective herbicides. Nonselective herbicides (e.g., Roundup, Kleenup) will eliminate any plant that takes in the herbicide.

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Weeds are classified as lawns, sedges, or broadleaves. Many herbicides control just weedy lawns or broadleaf weeds, not both. Check out the label on the herbicide container to identify if the item will control the type(s) of weeds in your grass. Typical grassy weeds in grass include crabgrass, foxtail, and quackgrass.

Pre-emergent herbicides are used to manage weeds before they are visible, normally in early spring. Preemergent herbicides are utilized primarily for control of yearly weeds (weeds that live just 1 year) such as crabgrass. Usage post-emergent herbicides when weeds show up. Postemergent herbicides can manage annual, biennial (2-year life cycle), or seasonal weeds (live forever).

Weed and feed products consist of both an herbicide and a fertilizer. The herbicide may be for either pre-emergent or post-emergent weed control. Due to the fact that these items contain an herbicide they should be kept and handled with the same level of care as any pesticide. Weed and feed products are attractive because it appears as if both weed control and fertility requirements can be accomplished with one application.

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The post-emergent items often fail to adequately manage weeds since the weeds soak up too little of the herbicide. When needed, use stand-alone preemergent herbicides to avoid problems of yearly weeds such as crabgrass.

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